Saturday, July 11, 1992

11 July 1992: Helena, Montana to Mercer Island, Washington

We left the Econo Lodge in Helena, Montana early in the morning.

My grandmother was in a panic because when she woke up and looked out of her motel room window, she saw a cemetery. We arrived at night, so we didn't see it then. My grandmother said that if she had known the cemetery was there, she never would have stayed at the motel.

We had left home in the Seattle, Washington area on May 25th, 48 days earlier. As much as we all enjoyed the trip, we were looking forward to being home again by the evening.

We followed U.S. Route 12 43 miles (69 km) west through the Rocky Mountains. It was a cloudy day. At an altitude of 4058 feet (1237 m), it felt as if we could simply extend our hands and touch the clouds.

We then joined Interstate 90 again, on which we would continue westward all the way home. 249 miles (400 km) later, we crossed the border separating Idaho from Washington State.

For the first time in almost seven weeks, we were back in our home state. We all let out cheers upon seeing a sign welcoming us to Washington State. Our drive across the barrenness of eastern Washington felt like the car was borne on the winds. It seemed that the road was passing by quicker with each mile.

188 miles (303 km) further west, we stopped for dinner in Ellensburg at a Perkins Restaurant.

After dinner, we took the final 102 miles (164 km) of the trip. Before we knew it, we had crossed over Snoqualmie Pass (elevation 3015 feet/919 m) and were back in the familiar territory of western Washington, descending out of the mountains toward sea level.

After an eleven hour drive, we arrived at my mother's apartment on Mercer Island, Washington in the evening. We took our luggage inside, and collapsed on couches and chairs. After one day shy of seven weeks, it felt good to be home again. Sitting there, it was easy to wonder if the entire trip had  been just a long dream.

The three cats were ecstatic to see their people again, and promptly started begging for attention. The neighbors had taken good care of them, but they were no substitute for us. They also seemed to take us to task for having been away for so long.

It took a few days to get used to being home, but life settled into its normal routines again. We had been there and back again, and were left with fantastic memories.

My grandmother passed away three years later. I'm glad she was able to experience traveling so extensively before she died.

Thank you for taking this journey through my memories.

Total Travel Distance: 582 miles (937 km)

Friday, July 10, 1992

10 July 1992: Bozeman, Montana to Helena, Montana

When we woke up, we noticed a difference in the air of Bozeman, Montana. The city is located in the Rocky Mountains at an elevation of 4,795 ft (1,461 m). The air seemed both purer and lighter. We had been too tired to notice when we arrived, but now we felt the difference.

We traveled 26 miles (42 km) east on Interstate 90 and 53 miles (85 km) south on U.S. Route 89 until we reached Gardiner, Montana.

We passed through the Roosevelt Arch and found ourselves in Yellowstone National Park. We continued to follow U.S. Route 89, and a few miles later we were in Wyoming, where the bulk of the park is located.

We spent at least four hours at Yellowstone, if not more. I remember one of the first things we saw as we climbed higher in elevation was a river beside the road. We stopped to take photos. There was a chipmunk that begged for food. I recall we gave it something to eat.

A river in Yellowstone National Park

Chipmunk

We saw Old Faithful. Our timing was perfect. As soon as we arrived and found a good vantage point, it erupted steam and water into the air. Yellowstone's most famous natural wonder didn't disappoint.

A crowd gathered to see Old Faithful

Old Faithful

Old Faithful

As we drove through another section of the park, we saw deer, elk, and even a bison bull at a great distance. I remember an elk in particular, because as we were driving up a hill it stood on the bank only a few feet away from the road. We stopped so I could take a photo out the car window. The elk looked up curiously and then returned to grazing.

The elk

A deer or elk

We also saw the famous paint pots of Yellowstone, large pools of bubbling mud and steam. We walked the wooden walkways above the paint pots, getting a better look at the pink colored mud. There were no guardrails, so we remained vigilant to not fall into the hot mud.

Yellowstone's Paint Pots

Yellowstone's Paint Pots

Yellowstone's Paint Pots

Yellowstone is a national treasure, but only spending several hours there, we had only seen a small bit of all it had to offer.

Yellowstone National Park

Yellowstone National Park

We left Yellowstone via U.S. Route 287, which delivered us back into Montana and the small town of West Yellowstone. I remember we stopped there for a late lunch/early dinner.

Then we followed U.S. Route 287 and Montana Secondary Highway 359 99 miles (159 km) north and back to Interstate 90. I recall passing Earthquake Lake, formed during a massive earthquake in 1957 which also killed over two dozen people. The tops of dead trees still poked above the water, casting a macabre mood over the lake as a graveyard of trees.

Earthquake Lake, Montana


We also saw cattle walking along the side of the freeway toward us. A little further, we saw that a section of  fence had been knocked down. It was a bovine jailbreak.

Bovine jailbreak

We were only on Interstate 90 for a few miles before we exited onto Montana Highway 69, which we drove 32 miles (51 km) on before continuing on Interstate 15 29 miles (47 km) until we reached Helena, Montana.

We had been on the road about fourteen hours and were exhausted. We missed the exit for the motel, quickly finding ourselves out of town and on a lonely freeway in a rural area. Not knowing how far it was until the next exit, we took a shortcut on a turnout connecting both halves of the freeway, ignoring the sign saying it was illegal to do so.

We were now headed back toward Helena, but almost instantly we saw flashing lights behind us. We were pulled over by a Montana Highway Patrol officer. After hearing our story of being tourists driving for fourteen hours and missing our exit, he let us go with only a warning.

We finally arrived at the Econo Lodge in Helena. We went directly to our rooms. It had been the longest day of the trip in terms of hours on the road. We were exhausted.

We were also looking forward to the next day being the final day of the trip. We were now only 582 miles (937 km) from our home in the Seattle, Washington area. Just one more day.

Total Travel Distance: 380 miles (612 km)

Thursday, July 9, 1992

9 July 1992: Rapid City, South Dakota to Bozeman, Montana

We left Rapid City, South Dakota very early in the morning. We had 593 miles (954 km) of highway before we reached our destination of Bozeman, Montana. It was a twelve hour drive, the longest day of the trip in miles traveled, and second longest in terms of hours.

We followed South Dakota Highway 79 south 18 miles (29 km), then followed South Dakota Highway 36 west 9 miles (14 km) until we reached U.S. Route 16A.

U.S. Route 16A is a 39 mile (63 km) scenic loop through the Black Hills of South Dakota.

We entered Custer State Park, a beautiful park with a diversity of wildlife to see. The most memorable were the park's famous Begging Burros, a herd of donkeys that love to beg for food from motorists.

We first encountered the donkeys as we approached a small hill. A dozen or more donkeys trotted down the hill, blocking the car and the cars behind us. They proceeded to approach cars for food. Our windows were up, so they began licking the car windows from all sides.

Donkey outside the car window

My grandmother, never a brave woman where animals of any sort were concerned, began waving her arms in a mad panic. To her, the donkeys were as much of a threat as a group of bears. She begged my mother and I not to get out of the car, but we ignored her.

The donkeys were exceedingly friendly beasts. They ate out of our hands, and allowed us to pet them. Several of them were also clearly verging on being fat. We had a bucket full of treats we'd bought for the ride, and ended up feeding most of them to the donkeys. They especially liked Sno Balls.

Donkeys surrounding the car while my mother gets more food

My mother got some of the creme filling from a Sno Ball on one of her fingers, and the donkey she was feeding bit down on it. Not hard mind you, and once my mother shouted "hey!" and the donkey realized it wasn't biting into food, it let go and looked as apologetic as a donkey can.

My mother just before she got bit

After the donkeys realized we were out of food, they moved on to the car behind us to beg for more.

The herd moves on to the next vehicle for more food

We returned to the car, where my grandmother was still in a panic, and continued on, the car windows now coated with donkey drool.

About 15 miles (24 km) northwest on U.S. Route 16A, we saw the Crazy Horse Monument, which will be the world's largest mountain carving when completed. At the time, it was still a very rough work in progress,  but we could clearly see the outline of the 87.5 feet (26.7 m) tall head of Crazy Horse carved in the mountain.

Crazy Horse Monument under construction

16 miles (26 km) north of the monument, we turned east on South Dakota Highway 244, which took us to the famous Mount Rushmore National Memorial. We could see it miles away, and the carved faces of the four presidents only grew larger as we got closer. Sculptures on that scale are always brilliant pieces of art to see. We stopped at the memorial's visitor center for a better look.

Mount Rushmore

We followed South Dakota Highway 244 back to U.S. Route 16A, stopping for one last look at Mount Rushmore from the east. Then we went north on U.S. Route 385 37 miles (60 km) through the Black Hills to the infamous Deadwood, South Dakota.

Franklin Hotel, Deadwood, South Dakota

The most memorable place in Deadwood for me was Mt. Moriah Cemetery, the final resting place for Wild Bill Hickok, Calamity Jane, and Potato Creek Johnny, among others.

Mt. Moriah Cemetery, Deadwood, South Dakota

Grave markers of Calamity Jane and Wild Bill Hickock

Replica of Wild Bill's original grave marker

Grave marker of Potato Creek Johnny

A brief jaunt on U.S. Route 85 took us back to Interstate 90. 270 miles (435 km) west, we stopped at the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument in Montana, where what became known in popular history as Custer's Last Stand occurred in 1876.

It was late afternoon when we arrived at Little Bighorn. The sun was low in the western sky, and its light struck the large stone monument over the mass grave of the American soldiers at the top of the hill, casting a long shadow. There were markers on the hillside where each soldier had fallen. What was once the site of a bloody battle was now a somber yet serene testament to history. Seven years after we were there, red granite markers began to be placed indicating where Native American warriors had fallen, which was long overdue, as they were the ones who fell fighting against an invading army.

Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument

Markers showing where Custer and his troops fell in battle

63 miles (101 km) further west, we stopped in Billings, Montana for dinner. We ate at a little hamburger place, decorated in classic 1950s style inside. There were phones at each booth. We called in our orders, and then when they were ready, a waitress delivered them to the table. It was a sit-down restaurant, but it was designed to function more like a classic drive-in.

143 miles (230 km) later, we finally arrived in Bozeman, Montana. We checked into our reserved rooms at the Prime Rate Motel. We went immediately to bed, knowing we had an even longer day ahead of us upon waking.

Total Travel Distance: 593 miles (954 km)

Wednesday, July 8, 1992

8 July 1992: Sioux Falls, South Dakota to Rapid City, South Dakota

We left Sioux Falls, South Dakota in the morning. Our destination was 430 miles (692 km) west in Rapid City, South Dakota.

It was about a seven hour drive. There were some tourist sites along the way, but just like Iowa, South Dakota was mostly flat and flatter. The sites were memorable, the drive not so much.

We left Sioux City with a short drive on Interstate 29 before we found ourselves on Interstate 90 once again.

142 miles (229 km ) west of Sioux City, we stopped in Chamberlain, South Dakota, a town on the east bank of the Missouri River, the longest river in North America at 2341 miles (3767 km) in length. As I recall, there was a Triple XXX drive-in restaurant in town or just outside of town where we stopped for a lunch of hamburgers and root beer. We also stopped at a rest area with a good view across the river so I could take some photos.

My mother and grandmother with the Missouri River in the background

Concrete teepee at the Chamberlain, South Dakota rest area

132 miles (212 km) west of Chamberlain we cut off on South Dakota Highway 240 for a 40 mile (64 km) loop through Badlands National Park.

Badlands National Park is a spectacular vista of eroded buttes and prairie. In certain places, the spaces between the buttes remind one of the Grand Canyon, albeit on a much smaller scale.

We stopped and hiked one of the easier trails in the park, but as I did when we visited the Grand Canyon, I almost fell while taking a risk to get a good photo. Apparently, I didn't learn from previous misfortune, but once again I got the photo I wanted.

Badlands, South Dakota

Badlands, South Dakota

Badlands, South Dakota

Badlands, South Dakota

Badlands, South Dakota

At the other end of the loop, we arrived in Wall, home of Wall Drug Store.

Wall Drug Store was once a small town drug store, but evolved into a tourist attraction after it began offering free ice water to travelers on the highway. In 1992, it was a mall consisting of the original drug store, a gift shop, a restaurant, and many small merchants. It also offered cups of coffee for a mere five cents.

I remember we had a bite to eat at the restaurant before wandering the mall for awhile. We purchased some trinkets in the gift shop. My grandmother got some of their five cent coffee for the road.

We followed Interstate 90 55 miles (89 km) west to Rapid City, where we had rooms reserved at the Motel 6. We waited a couple of hours before eating a light dinner.

Total Travel Distance: 430 miles (692 km)

Tuesday, July 7, 1992

7 July 1992: Milan, Missouri to Sioux Falls, South Dakota

After spending seven days and eight nights in Milan, Missouri with our cousin Lanny and his wife Karen, it was time to return to the concrete trail for the final leg of our journey, which would take us home to the Seattle, Washington area at last.

Milan was not only the longest stop on the trip, it was one of the most enjoyable. It was a pleasure to meet long-lost relatives. It began to feel like our home away from home.

As we drove away from Lanny and Karen's house, we drove north along the dirt road that took us past the the small house where my maternal 2nd-great-grandfather Elihu Millikan Crawford M.D. lived his final years before his death in 1924, and then back through the village of Boynton and past the well in the road.

We continued 52 miles (84 km) in a northwesterly direction on Missouri Route 5, U.S. Route 136, and Iowa Highway 2 to Corydon, Iowa.

My great-grandfather Henry Elwood Crawford was born near there in 1866, so I stopped to do some research in the courthouse. My 2nd-great-grandparents Elihu Millikan and Adalade (née Woodruff) Crawford had only lived there for about eight years before moving south to Missouri, so I didn't expect to find any substantial records, which was indeed the case.

Our next destination was 357 miles (575 km) northwest in Sioux Falls, South Dakota, but first we had to trek across Iowa. Outside of its cities, Iowa is flat farmland. Mile after mile of flat farmland tends to blur together into a homogeneous memory.

Our route took us along Iowa Highway 14, U.S. Route 34, Interstate 35, Insterstate 80, Insterstate 680, and Insterstate 29.

Entering Sioux Falls was like visiting a smaller cousin of the Las Vegas Strip. I remember a lot of neon signs advertising local attractions. We arrived at twilight, so the lights stood out in the growing darkness.

Our rooms were reserved at the Select Inn. I believe we ate dinner at a local steakhouse before returning to our rooms for the night.

Total Travel Distance: 410 miles (660 km)

Tuesday, June 30, 1992

30 June-6 July 1992: Milan, Missouri

We spent seven days and eight nights in Milan, Sullivan County, Missouri with our cousin Lanny and his wife Karen. We met even more cousins. Our stay was an extended family reunion.

My cousin Lanny and his wife Karen

My maternal great-grandparents Henry Elwood and Polly Ann (née Hayes) Crawford came west from Sullivan County to Yakima, Washington in 1907. Polly's parents, my 2nd great-grandparents James Hamilton and Rachel Jane (née Vaughn) Hayes, had moved to Naches, Washington (12 miles/19.3 km northwest of Yakima) in 1901, along with most of Polly's siblings.

Growing up, my mother heard rumors about family in Missouri, but this was the first time the Washington and Missouri Crawfords had met in person since the lines split geographically in 1907.

We met an elderly cousin named Evelyn who was able to provide quite a bit of information about the family history, including new clues to be followed up on later. We met another cousin, Virgil, who owned a general store in the village of Pollock, 13 miles (21 km) north of Milan. Virgil gave us some free soda pop to drink when we visited his store.

Virgil's General Store, Pollock, Missouri

My mother, Lanny, Virgil's wife Bernadean, Virgil, Karen, and my grandmother,
taken inside the general store

Lanny took us to the local cemeteries where Crawford ancestors were buried. He also took us to see the small house near the village of Boynton where my 2nd-great-grandfather Elihu Millikan Crawford M.D. lived his final years before his death in 1924.

Grave of my 2nd-great-grandfather Elihu Millikan Crawford M.D.
(1834-1924)

Grave of my 2nd-great-grandmother Adalade Crawford (née Woodruff)
(1840-1887)

Grave of Dr. Crawford's 2nd wife, Laura Olive Crawford (née Price)
(1860-1908)

The two-room house where Dr. Crawford spent his final years

There was an old Grindstaff family cemetery in the woods on Lanny's property. It had been there when he bought the property and they were no relation to him. He only mentioned it as an interesting fact, but when I heard the name Grindstaff my eyes lit up.

My 3rd-great-grandparents were James Michael and Mary Susan (née Grindstaff) Hayes, and the people buried in that little cemetery turned out to be related to her and thus to me in an amazing coincidence.

I later traced my Grindstaff line back to my 8th-great-grandfather Dietrich Crantzdorf (1650-1714) from the village of Rimschweiler in the Duchy of Pfalz-Zweibrucken, what's now the German state of Rheinland-Pfalz.  His grandson, my 6th-great-grandfather Johann Michael Crantzdorf, changed the family name to Grindstaff after he immigrated to the Pennsylvania Colony in the 1740s.

Lanny and Karen lived on a cattle ranch 7 miles (11.2 km) north of Milan, reached by a bumpy ride down a dirt road. I found it to be a peaceful and relaxing environment. Being a life long resident of the city, it was pleasant to be woken up each morning by the gentle mooing of cattle instead of by the sounds of traffic and jets.

Lanny and Karen's home

Lanny's cattle

Lanny's cattle

A pond in Lanny's backyard

There was such an absence of traffic noise that when we did hear it, it was from the rare large truck 2 miles (3.2 km) west on Missouri Route 5. According to Lanny, you couldn't hear anything smaller than that.

After we arrived, I came down with flu-like symptoms for a couple of days. I went to a doctor in Milan to see if there was anything else wrong. There wasn't, but he prescribed some medication to relieve the worst of the symptoms.

We went to the local drugstore to purchase the medication, and discovered it still had an old fashioned soda fountain. I may not have felt my best, but it was fun to sit at the counter and order a cherry phosphate soda (yes, they even used an old fashioned recipe).

I started feeling better after about three days. I remember visiting the office of the local newspaper, the Milan Standard to purchase two books they published about the history of Milan, and spending an afternoon at the local library doing research.

We also drove to Linneus, the seat of Linn County (which shared its northern border with Sullivan County), 25 miles (40 km) south of Milan. My Hayes ancestors had lived there, so I did some research in the courthouse. At some point during drive around the area, we saw a horse-drawn Mennonite carriage pass us on the road.

On July 4th, there was a big gathering at Lanny and Karen's. I remember a barbecue and watching fireworks, and meeting even more cousins.

My cousin Richard (Lanny's brother) and his wife Reva with my mother

The next day was a Sunday, and we attended morning services at the First Baptist Church of Milan with Lanny and Karen.

Later in the week, my mother's car was having a problem with the air conditioning, so we drove 32 miles (51km) east to Kirksville, where the nearest Dodge dealership was located. The car was still under warranty, so the dealership repaired it at no charge. We also had an oil change and tire rotation performed.

Returning to Milan via a country road, we came around a bend to find a black cow standing in the road. We stopped the car. After glaring at us for a minute, it turned and went back into the pasture. It looked like a nearby fence had been knocked over, which is how the cow came to be wandering loose.

Cow in the road

Speaking of cattle, my mother got to spray down Lanny's cattle with flea repellent. I declined that opportunity. I may have enjoyed my stay in the country, but I was still a city slicker when it came to some things, and trodding through piles of manure was unappealing. I did take part in feeding the cattle, though.

We visited more relatives in Boynton, a village comprised of only a few houses, 9 miles (14.5 km) north of Milan. At the beginning of the 20th century, it had been a thriving town with a railroad station. My great-grandfather Henry Elwood Crawford worked in the rail-yard there before moving to Yakima, Washington.

There was a water well right in the middle of the main road through Boynton, which is something that's remained firm in my memory. Lanny said the state tried to remove the well, but locals protested, and got up a posse to defend it.

The well in the middle of Boynton's main road

Lanny and Karen also took us to a town across the border in Iowa 36 miles (58 km) north of Milan for a day of shopping. I remember going to a Wal-Mart. I believe that was the day before we left.

It was a memorable time spent in Milan.

Sunset

Lightning storm

Mennonite carriage