We left the Econo Lodge in Helena, Montana early in the morning.
My grandmother was in a panic because when she woke up and looked out of her motel room window, she saw a cemetery. We arrived at night, so we didn't see it then. My grandmother said that if she had known the cemetery was there, she never would have stayed at the motel.
We had left home in the Seattle, Washington area on May 25th, 48 days earlier. As much as we all enjoyed the trip, we were looking forward to being home again by the evening.
We followed U.S. Route 12 43 miles (69 km) west through the Rocky Mountains. It was a cloudy day. At an altitude of 4058 feet (1237 m), it felt as if we could simply extend our hands and touch the clouds.
We then joined Interstate 90 again, on which we would continue westward all the way home. 249 miles (400 km) later, we crossed the border separating Idaho from Washington State.
For the first time in almost seven weeks, we were back in our home state. We all let out cheers upon seeing a sign welcoming us to Washington State. Our drive across the barrenness of eastern Washington felt like the car was borne on the winds. It seemed that the road was passing by quicker with each mile.
188 miles (303 km) further west, we stopped for dinner in Ellensburg at a Perkins Restaurant.
After dinner, we took the final 102 miles (164 km) of the trip. Before we knew it, we had crossed over Snoqualmie Pass (elevation 3015 feet/919 m) and were back in the familiar territory of western Washington, descending out of the mountains toward sea level.
After an eleven hour drive, we arrived at my mother's apartment on Mercer Island, Washington in the evening. We took our luggage inside, and collapsed on couches and chairs. After one day shy of seven weeks, it felt good to be home again. Sitting there, it was easy to wonder if the entire trip had been just a long dream.
The three cats were ecstatic to see their people again, and promptly started begging for attention. The neighbors had taken good care of them, but they were no substitute for us. They also seemed to take us to task for having been away for so long.
It took a few days to get used to being home, but life settled into its normal routines again. We had been there and back again, and were left with fantastic memories.
My grandmother passed away three years later. I'm glad she was able to experience traveling so extensively before she died.
Thank you for taking this journey through my memories.
Total Travel Distance: 582 miles (937 km)
Saturday, July 11, 1992
Friday, July 10, 1992
10 July 1992: Bozeman, Montana to Helena, Montana
When we woke up, we noticed a difference in the air of Bozeman, Montana. The city is located in the Rocky Mountains at an elevation of 4,795 ft (1,461 m). The air seemed both purer and lighter. We had been too tired to notice when we arrived, but now we felt the difference.
We traveled 26 miles (42 km) east on Interstate 90 and 53 miles (85 km) south on U.S. Route 89 until we reached Gardiner, Montana.
We passed through the Roosevelt Arch and found ourselves in Yellowstone National Park. We continued to follow U.S. Route 89, and a few miles later we were in Wyoming, where the bulk of the park is located.
We spent at least four hours at Yellowstone, if not more. I remember one of the first things we saw as we climbed higher in elevation was a river beside the road. We stopped to take photos. There was a chipmunk that begged for food. I recall we gave it something to eat.
We saw Old Faithful. Our timing was perfect. As soon as we arrived and found a good vantage point, it erupted steam and water into the air. Yellowstone's most famous natural wonder didn't disappoint.
As we drove through another section of the park, we saw deer, elk, and even a bison bull at a great distance. I remember an elk in particular, because as we were driving up a hill it stood on the bank only a few feet away from the road. We stopped so I could take a photo out the car window. The elk looked up curiously and then returned to grazing.
We also saw the famous paint pots of Yellowstone, large pools of bubbling mud and steam. We walked the wooden walkways above the paint pots, getting a better look at the pink colored mud. There were no guardrails, so we remained vigilant to not fall into the hot mud.
Yellowstone is a national treasure, but only spending several hours there, we had only seen a small bit of all it had to offer.
We left Yellowstone via U.S. Route 287, which delivered us back into Montana and the small town of West Yellowstone. I remember we stopped there for a late lunch/early dinner.
Then we followed U.S. Route 287 and Montana Secondary Highway 359 99 miles (159 km) north and back to Interstate 90. I recall passing Earthquake Lake, formed during a massive earthquake in 1957 which also killed over two dozen people. The tops of dead trees still poked above the water, casting a macabre mood over the lake as a graveyard of trees.
We also saw cattle walking along the side of the freeway toward us. A little further, we saw that a section of fence had been knocked down. It was a bovine jailbreak.
We were only on Interstate 90 for a few miles before we exited onto Montana Highway 69, which we drove 32 miles (51 km) on before continuing on Interstate 15 29 miles (47 km) until we reached Helena, Montana.
We had been on the road about fourteen hours and were exhausted. We missed the exit for the motel, quickly finding ourselves out of town and on a lonely freeway in a rural area. Not knowing how far it was until the next exit, we took a shortcut on a turnout connecting both halves of the freeway, ignoring the sign saying it was illegal to do so.
We were now headed back toward Helena, but almost instantly we saw flashing lights behind us. We were pulled over by a Montana Highway Patrol officer. After hearing our story of being tourists driving for fourteen hours and missing our exit, he let us go with only a warning.
We finally arrived at the Econo Lodge in Helena. We went directly to our rooms. It had been the longest day of the trip in terms of hours on the road. We were exhausted.
We were also looking forward to the next day being the final day of the trip. We were now only 582 miles (937 km) from our home in the Seattle, Washington area. Just one more day.
Total Travel Distance: 380 miles (612 km)
We traveled 26 miles (42 km) east on Interstate 90 and 53 miles (85 km) south on U.S. Route 89 until we reached Gardiner, Montana.
We passed through the Roosevelt Arch and found ourselves in Yellowstone National Park. We continued to follow U.S. Route 89, and a few miles later we were in Wyoming, where the bulk of the park is located.
We spent at least four hours at Yellowstone, if not more. I remember one of the first things we saw as we climbed higher in elevation was a river beside the road. We stopped to take photos. There was a chipmunk that begged for food. I recall we gave it something to eat.
A river in Yellowstone National Park
Chipmunk
We saw Old Faithful. Our timing was perfect. As soon as we arrived and found a good vantage point, it erupted steam and water into the air. Yellowstone's most famous natural wonder didn't disappoint.
A crowd gathered to see Old Faithful
Old Faithful
Old Faithful
As we drove through another section of the park, we saw deer, elk, and even a bison bull at a great distance. I remember an elk in particular, because as we were driving up a hill it stood on the bank only a few feet away from the road. We stopped so I could take a photo out the car window. The elk looked up curiously and then returned to grazing.
The elk
A deer or elk
We also saw the famous paint pots of Yellowstone, large pools of bubbling mud and steam. We walked the wooden walkways above the paint pots, getting a better look at the pink colored mud. There were no guardrails, so we remained vigilant to not fall into the hot mud.
Yellowstone's Paint Pots
Yellowstone's Paint Pots
Yellowstone's Paint Pots
Yellowstone is a national treasure, but only spending several hours there, we had only seen a small bit of all it had to offer.
Yellowstone National Park
Yellowstone National Park
We left Yellowstone via U.S. Route 287, which delivered us back into Montana and the small town of West Yellowstone. I remember we stopped there for a late lunch/early dinner.
Then we followed U.S. Route 287 and Montana Secondary Highway 359 99 miles (159 km) north and back to Interstate 90. I recall passing Earthquake Lake, formed during a massive earthquake in 1957 which also killed over two dozen people. The tops of dead trees still poked above the water, casting a macabre mood over the lake as a graveyard of trees.
Earthquake Lake, Montana
We also saw cattle walking along the side of the freeway toward us. A little further, we saw that a section of fence had been knocked down. It was a bovine jailbreak.
Bovine jailbreak
We were only on Interstate 90 for a few miles before we exited onto Montana Highway 69, which we drove 32 miles (51 km) on before continuing on Interstate 15 29 miles (47 km) until we reached Helena, Montana.
We had been on the road about fourteen hours and were exhausted. We missed the exit for the motel, quickly finding ourselves out of town and on a lonely freeway in a rural area. Not knowing how far it was until the next exit, we took a shortcut on a turnout connecting both halves of the freeway, ignoring the sign saying it was illegal to do so.
We were now headed back toward Helena, but almost instantly we saw flashing lights behind us. We were pulled over by a Montana Highway Patrol officer. After hearing our story of being tourists driving for fourteen hours and missing our exit, he let us go with only a warning.
We finally arrived at the Econo Lodge in Helena. We went directly to our rooms. It had been the longest day of the trip in terms of hours on the road. We were exhausted.
We were also looking forward to the next day being the final day of the trip. We were now only 582 miles (937 km) from our home in the Seattle, Washington area. Just one more day.
Total Travel Distance: 380 miles (612 km)
Thursday, July 9, 1992
9 July 1992: Rapid City, South Dakota to Bozeman, Montana
We left Rapid City, South Dakota very early in the morning. We had 593 miles (954 km) of highway before we reached our destination of Bozeman, Montana. It was a twelve hour drive, the longest day of the trip in miles traveled, and second longest in terms of hours.
We followed South Dakota Highway 79 south 18 miles (29 km), then followed South Dakota Highway 36 west 9 miles (14 km) until we reached U.S. Route 16A.
U.S. Route 16A is a 39 mile (63 km) scenic loop through the Black Hills of South Dakota.
We entered Custer State Park, a beautiful park with a diversity of wildlife to see. The most memorable were the park's famous Begging Burros, a herd of donkeys that love to beg for food from motorists.
We first encountered the donkeys as we approached a small hill. A dozen or more donkeys trotted down the hill, blocking the car and the cars behind us. They proceeded to approach cars for food. Our windows were up, so they began licking the car windows from all sides.
My grandmother, never a brave woman where animals of any sort were concerned, began waving her arms in a mad panic. To her, the donkeys were as much of a threat as a group of bears. She begged my mother and I not to get out of the car, but we ignored her.
The donkeys were exceedingly friendly beasts. They ate out of our hands, and allowed us to pet them. Several of them were also clearly verging on being fat. We had a bucket full of treats we'd bought for the ride, and ended up feeding most of them to the donkeys. They especially liked Sno Balls.
My mother got some of the creme filling from a Sno Ball on one of her fingers, and the donkey she was feeding bit down on it. Not hard mind you, and once my mother shouted "hey!" and the donkey realized it wasn't biting into food, it let go and looked as apologetic as a donkey can.
After the donkeys realized we were out of food, they moved on to the car behind us to beg for more.
We returned to the car, where my grandmother was still in a panic, and continued on, the car windows now coated with donkey drool.
About 15 miles (24 km) northwest on U.S. Route 16A, we saw the Crazy Horse Monument, which will be the world's largest mountain carving when completed. At the time, it was still a very rough work in progress, but we could clearly see the outline of the 87.5 feet (26.7 m) tall head of Crazy Horse carved in the mountain.
16 miles (26 km) north of the monument, we turned east on South Dakota Highway 244, which took us to the famous Mount Rushmore National Memorial. We could see it miles away, and the carved faces of the four presidents only grew larger as we got closer. Sculptures on that scale are always brilliant pieces of art to see. We stopped at the memorial's visitor center for a better look.
We followed South Dakota Highway 244 back to U.S. Route 16A, stopping for one last look at Mount Rushmore from the east. Then we went north on U.S. Route 385 37 miles (60 km) through the Black Hills to the infamous Deadwood, South Dakota.
The most memorable place in Deadwood for me was Mt. Moriah Cemetery, the final resting place for Wild Bill Hickok, Calamity Jane, and Potato Creek Johnny, among others.
A brief jaunt on U.S. Route 85 took us back to Interstate 90. 270 miles (435 km) west, we stopped at the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument in Montana, where what became known in popular history as Custer's Last Stand occurred in 1876.
It was late afternoon when we arrived at Little Bighorn. The sun was low in the western sky, and its light struck the large stone monument over the mass grave of the American soldiers at the top of the hill, casting a long shadow. There were markers on the hillside where each soldier had fallen. What was once the site of a bloody battle was now a somber yet serene testament to history. Seven years after we were there, red granite markers began to be placed indicating where Native American warriors had fallen, which was long overdue, as they were the ones who fell fighting against an invading army.
63 miles (101 km) further west, we stopped in Billings, Montana for dinner. We ate at a little hamburger place, decorated in classic 1950s style inside. There were phones at each booth. We called in our orders, and then when they were ready, a waitress delivered them to the table. It was a sit-down restaurant, but it was designed to function more like a classic drive-in.
143 miles (230 km) later, we finally arrived in Bozeman, Montana. We checked into our reserved rooms at the Prime Rate Motel. We went immediately to bed, knowing we had an even longer day ahead of us upon waking.
Total Travel Distance: 593 miles (954 km)
We followed South Dakota Highway 79 south 18 miles (29 km), then followed South Dakota Highway 36 west 9 miles (14 km) until we reached U.S. Route 16A.
U.S. Route 16A is a 39 mile (63 km) scenic loop through the Black Hills of South Dakota.
We entered Custer State Park, a beautiful park with a diversity of wildlife to see. The most memorable were the park's famous Begging Burros, a herd of donkeys that love to beg for food from motorists.
We first encountered the donkeys as we approached a small hill. A dozen or more donkeys trotted down the hill, blocking the car and the cars behind us. They proceeded to approach cars for food. Our windows were up, so they began licking the car windows from all sides.
Donkey outside the car window
My grandmother, never a brave woman where animals of any sort were concerned, began waving her arms in a mad panic. To her, the donkeys were as much of a threat as a group of bears. She begged my mother and I not to get out of the car, but we ignored her.
The donkeys were exceedingly friendly beasts. They ate out of our hands, and allowed us to pet them. Several of them were also clearly verging on being fat. We had a bucket full of treats we'd bought for the ride, and ended up feeding most of them to the donkeys. They especially liked Sno Balls.
Donkeys surrounding the car while my mother gets more food
My mother got some of the creme filling from a Sno Ball on one of her fingers, and the donkey she was feeding bit down on it. Not hard mind you, and once my mother shouted "hey!" and the donkey realized it wasn't biting into food, it let go and looked as apologetic as a donkey can.
My mother just before she got bit
After the donkeys realized we were out of food, they moved on to the car behind us to beg for more.
The herd moves on to the next vehicle for more food
We returned to the car, where my grandmother was still in a panic, and continued on, the car windows now coated with donkey drool.
About 15 miles (24 km) northwest on U.S. Route 16A, we saw the Crazy Horse Monument, which will be the world's largest mountain carving when completed. At the time, it was still a very rough work in progress, but we could clearly see the outline of the 87.5 feet (26.7 m) tall head of Crazy Horse carved in the mountain.
Crazy Horse Monument under construction
16 miles (26 km) north of the monument, we turned east on South Dakota Highway 244, which took us to the famous Mount Rushmore National Memorial. We could see it miles away, and the carved faces of the four presidents only grew larger as we got closer. Sculptures on that scale are always brilliant pieces of art to see. We stopped at the memorial's visitor center for a better look.
Mount Rushmore
We followed South Dakota Highway 244 back to U.S. Route 16A, stopping for one last look at Mount Rushmore from the east. Then we went north on U.S. Route 385 37 miles (60 km) through the Black Hills to the infamous Deadwood, South Dakota.
Franklin Hotel, Deadwood, South Dakota
The most memorable place in Deadwood for me was Mt. Moriah Cemetery, the final resting place for Wild Bill Hickok, Calamity Jane, and Potato Creek Johnny, among others.
Mt. Moriah Cemetery, Deadwood, South Dakota
Grave markers of Calamity Jane and Wild Bill Hickock
Replica of Wild Bill's original grave marker
Grave marker of Potato Creek Johnny
A brief jaunt on U.S. Route 85 took us back to Interstate 90. 270 miles (435 km) west, we stopped at the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument in Montana, where what became known in popular history as Custer's Last Stand occurred in 1876.
It was late afternoon when we arrived at Little Bighorn. The sun was low in the western sky, and its light struck the large stone monument over the mass grave of the American soldiers at the top of the hill, casting a long shadow. There were markers on the hillside where each soldier had fallen. What was once the site of a bloody battle was now a somber yet serene testament to history. Seven years after we were there, red granite markers began to be placed indicating where Native American warriors had fallen, which was long overdue, as they were the ones who fell fighting against an invading army.
Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument
Markers showing where Custer and his troops fell in battle
63 miles (101 km) further west, we stopped in Billings, Montana for dinner. We ate at a little hamburger place, decorated in classic 1950s style inside. There were phones at each booth. We called in our orders, and then when they were ready, a waitress delivered them to the table. It was a sit-down restaurant, but it was designed to function more like a classic drive-in.
143 miles (230 km) later, we finally arrived in Bozeman, Montana. We checked into our reserved rooms at the Prime Rate Motel. We went immediately to bed, knowing we had an even longer day ahead of us upon waking.
Total Travel Distance: 593 miles (954 km)
Wednesday, July 8, 1992
8 July 1992: Sioux Falls, South Dakota to Rapid City, South Dakota
We left Sioux Falls, South Dakota in the morning. Our destination was 430 miles (692 km) west in Rapid City, South Dakota.
It was about a seven hour drive. There were some tourist sites along the way, but just like Iowa, South Dakota was mostly flat and flatter. The sites were memorable, the drive not so much.
We left Sioux City with a short drive on Interstate 29 before we found ourselves on Interstate 90 once again.
142 miles (229 km ) west of Sioux City, we stopped in Chamberlain, South Dakota, a town on the east bank of the Missouri River, the longest river in North America at 2341 miles (3767 km) in length. As I recall, there was a Triple XXX drive-in restaurant in town or just outside of town where we stopped for a lunch of hamburgers and root beer. We also stopped at a rest area with a good view across the river so I could take some photos.
132 miles (212 km) west of Chamberlain we cut off on South Dakota Highway 240 for a 40 mile (64 km) loop through Badlands National Park.
Badlands National Park is a spectacular vista of eroded buttes and prairie. In certain places, the spaces between the buttes remind one of the Grand Canyon, albeit on a much smaller scale.
We stopped and hiked one of the easier trails in the park, but as I did when we visited the Grand Canyon, I almost fell while taking a risk to get a good photo. Apparently, I didn't learn from previous misfortune, but once again I got the photo I wanted.
At the other end of the loop, we arrived in Wall, home of Wall Drug Store.
Wall Drug Store was once a small town drug store, but evolved into a tourist attraction after it began offering free ice water to travelers on the highway. In 1992, it was a mall consisting of the original drug store, a gift shop, a restaurant, and many small merchants. It also offered cups of coffee for a mere five cents.
I remember we had a bite to eat at the restaurant before wandering the mall for awhile. We purchased some trinkets in the gift shop. My grandmother got some of their five cent coffee for the road.
We followed Interstate 90 55 miles (89 km) west to Rapid City, where we had rooms reserved at the Motel 6. We waited a couple of hours before eating a light dinner.
Total Travel Distance: 430 miles (692 km)
It was about a seven hour drive. There were some tourist sites along the way, but just like Iowa, South Dakota was mostly flat and flatter. The sites were memorable, the drive not so much.
We left Sioux City with a short drive on Interstate 29 before we found ourselves on Interstate 90 once again.
142 miles (229 km ) west of Sioux City, we stopped in Chamberlain, South Dakota, a town on the east bank of the Missouri River, the longest river in North America at 2341 miles (3767 km) in length. As I recall, there was a Triple XXX drive-in restaurant in town or just outside of town where we stopped for a lunch of hamburgers and root beer. We also stopped at a rest area with a good view across the river so I could take some photos.
My mother and grandmother with the Missouri River in the background
Concrete teepee at the Chamberlain, South Dakota rest area
132 miles (212 km) west of Chamberlain we cut off on South Dakota Highway 240 for a 40 mile (64 km) loop through Badlands National Park.
Badlands National Park is a spectacular vista of eroded buttes and prairie. In certain places, the spaces between the buttes remind one of the Grand Canyon, albeit on a much smaller scale.
We stopped and hiked one of the easier trails in the park, but as I did when we visited the Grand Canyon, I almost fell while taking a risk to get a good photo. Apparently, I didn't learn from previous misfortune, but once again I got the photo I wanted.
Badlands, South Dakota
Badlands, South Dakota
Badlands, South Dakota
Badlands, South Dakota
Badlands, South Dakota
At the other end of the loop, we arrived in Wall, home of Wall Drug Store.
Wall Drug Store was once a small town drug store, but evolved into a tourist attraction after it began offering free ice water to travelers on the highway. In 1992, it was a mall consisting of the original drug store, a gift shop, a restaurant, and many small merchants. It also offered cups of coffee for a mere five cents.
I remember we had a bite to eat at the restaurant before wandering the mall for awhile. We purchased some trinkets in the gift shop. My grandmother got some of their five cent coffee for the road.
We followed Interstate 90 55 miles (89 km) west to Rapid City, where we had rooms reserved at the Motel 6. We waited a couple of hours before eating a light dinner.
Total Travel Distance: 430 miles (692 km)
Tuesday, July 7, 1992
7 July 1992: Milan, Missouri to Sioux Falls, South Dakota
After spending seven days and eight nights in Milan, Missouri with our cousin Lanny and his wife Karen, it was time to return to the concrete trail for the final leg of our journey, which would take us home to the Seattle, Washington area at last.
Milan was not only the longest stop on the trip, it was one of the most enjoyable. It was a pleasure to meet long-lost relatives. It began to feel like our home away from home.
As we drove away from Lanny and Karen's house, we drove north along the dirt road that took us past the the small house where my maternal 2nd-great-grandfather Elihu Millikan Crawford M.D. lived his final years before his death in 1924, and then back through the village of Boynton and past the well in the road.
We continued 52 miles (84 km) in a northwesterly direction on Missouri Route 5, U.S. Route 136, and Iowa Highway 2 to Corydon, Iowa.
My great-grandfather Henry Elwood Crawford was born near there in 1866, so I stopped to do some research in the courthouse. My 2nd-great-grandparents Elihu Millikan and Adalade (née Woodruff) Crawford had only lived there for about eight years before moving south to Missouri, so I didn't expect to find any substantial records, which was indeed the case.
Our next destination was 357 miles (575 km) northwest in Sioux Falls, South Dakota, but first we had to trek across Iowa. Outside of its cities, Iowa is flat farmland. Mile after mile of flat farmland tends to blur together into a homogeneous memory.
Our route took us along Iowa Highway 14, U.S. Route 34, Interstate 35, Insterstate 80, Insterstate 680, and Insterstate 29.
Entering Sioux Falls was like visiting a smaller cousin of the Las Vegas Strip. I remember a lot of neon signs advertising local attractions. We arrived at twilight, so the lights stood out in the growing darkness.
Our rooms were reserved at the Select Inn. I believe we ate dinner at a local steakhouse before returning to our rooms for the night.
Total Travel Distance: 410 miles (660 km)
Milan was not only the longest stop on the trip, it was one of the most enjoyable. It was a pleasure to meet long-lost relatives. It began to feel like our home away from home.
As we drove away from Lanny and Karen's house, we drove north along the dirt road that took us past the the small house where my maternal 2nd-great-grandfather Elihu Millikan Crawford M.D. lived his final years before his death in 1924, and then back through the village of Boynton and past the well in the road.
We continued 52 miles (84 km) in a northwesterly direction on Missouri Route 5, U.S. Route 136, and Iowa Highway 2 to Corydon, Iowa.
My great-grandfather Henry Elwood Crawford was born near there in 1866, so I stopped to do some research in the courthouse. My 2nd-great-grandparents Elihu Millikan and Adalade (née Woodruff) Crawford had only lived there for about eight years before moving south to Missouri, so I didn't expect to find any substantial records, which was indeed the case.
Our next destination was 357 miles (575 km) northwest in Sioux Falls, South Dakota, but first we had to trek across Iowa. Outside of its cities, Iowa is flat farmland. Mile after mile of flat farmland tends to blur together into a homogeneous memory.
Our route took us along Iowa Highway 14, U.S. Route 34, Interstate 35, Insterstate 80, Insterstate 680, and Insterstate 29.
Entering Sioux Falls was like visiting a smaller cousin of the Las Vegas Strip. I remember a lot of neon signs advertising local attractions. We arrived at twilight, so the lights stood out in the growing darkness.
Our rooms were reserved at the Select Inn. I believe we ate dinner at a local steakhouse before returning to our rooms for the night.
Total Travel Distance: 410 miles (660 km)
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